China Travel Backpackers Photo Blog * 中国 旅游 背包 博客

This blog is in Chinese AND English. Welcome readers from all over the world! China: Portrait of A People, Tom Carter 历时两年倾力打造。一路跟随,遍布中国每一个省份,这里是中国,这里是我们的故事。Hannah 和Tom,一段快乐而又不一样的旅程!故事在这里叙述,心情在这里流淌,旅程由此开始...... Tom and Hannah traveled across China to create CHINA: Portrait of a People, the most comprehensive book of photography on modern China ever published (2008, Blacksmith Books). But here is the story behind this book; the story and photos of our backpacking adventures in China...

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Tuesday, April 17, 2012

China backpacker Tom Carter was the cover story of Beijing Today

Travel photographer Tom Carter is on the March 2012 cover of Beijing Today.


“Too many foreigners and tourists come to China only to see a few famous sites or live in a single city like Beijing or Shanghai, then they leave without ever really knowing the country or its people,” Carter said. “But I wanted to see it all.” That’s exactly what he did. Carter has traveled more than 56,000 kilometers across all 33 provinces, stopping at more than 200 cities and villages.

The entire article can be read at BEIJING TODAY

Beijing Today, 今日北京, first published in 2001, is the capital’s only English weekly newspaper. It prints and circulates 50,000 copies every Friday in conjunction with China Youth Daily and Beijing Youth Daily, the official newspapers of China's Communist Youth League.

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Purchase Tom's China photography book on Amazon.

Join Tom's China group on Facebook.

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

The world finally knows CHINA: Portrait of a People

Tom Carter's ground-breaking 640-page coffee table book CHINA: Portrait of a People made its official world-wide debut this summer of 2010, and the response has been really great!

So far 60 customer reviews on Amazon. Plus a fantastic review by China Daily newspaper, who said:

"There is no single image that can adequately represent the diversity that is China. This is partly why Tom Carter's 638-page tome of photographs taken during his tour of the country between 2006 and 2008 works so well... It's not a travel guide showing China dressed in its Sunday best, or a photojournalistic approach documenting the underbelly of the country, but rather a peek at the sights Carter has seen and a corrective to both the glowing promotional images and negative Western media shots that we are all familiar with."

Also, CNN "Go" interviewed Tom about his China travel adventures, Shanghai Talk magazine gave Tom's book its cover story, and Tom will also be speaking about his photography on behalf of the USA Pavilion at the Shanghai Expo on August 15th.

It seems the world finally knows about CHINA: Portrait of a People, even though we completed our backpacking journey across China more than 2 years ago. Like the old saying goes, "good things come to those who wait."

So for anyone planning on backpacking in China, or working in China as an expat, take a look at CHINA: Portrait of a People to inspire you. With over 800 pictures of Chinese people and places, this book will encourage you to follow in Tom Carter's trail-blazing path across the 33 provinces of China. Order it today on Amazon.com; it's finally available anywhere in the world!


Sunday, April 18, 2010

Portrait of spring in China!


It's spring in China. The YouCaiHua 油菜花 have turned the fields into molten gold, and the breeze is fragrant with life!
Only two more months until CHINA: Portrait of a People debuts on Amazon.Com.
Pre-order your copy today! Thank you for your support!

Sunday, May 24, 2009

India Backpacking Update!

Hi everyone! Just to let you know, Tom and I are now in India. We will be backpacking across ALL 35 states/territories for a year or so to photograph Tom's next book, INDIA: Portrait of a People. India is a fascinating, colorful yet extremely challenging country to travel in (Tom and I were even arrested by the Mumbai police for "trespassing" in a slum!); I miss China very much already, and even though it is very difficult for us Chinese to get a long-term tourist visa from the Indian Consulate (political reasons) so I can stay here a year, I remain optimistic! Check back often for updates, and expect a VERY interesting India photo blog from us following the completion of our trip. In the meantime, you can view some of Tom's very first photos of India on Flickr INDIA TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHY or his new blog INDIA PHOTOGRAPHER, and read Tom's official INDIA PRESS RELEASE. Thanks again for all your support of my China travel blog and Tom's China photo book CHINA: Portrait of a People.

Friday, August 8, 2008

媒体关注CHINA: Portrait of A People, 中国行--最后全记录

Here following is Tom and Hannah's China travel internary for the making of CHINA: Portrait of a People, the most comprehensive book of photography on modern China ever published by a single author. Actually before we set out for this long trip together, Tom already lived in China 2 years and took another year for his first journey acrossing China, from north to south, east to west, footprint in every province. But for this great epic photo book project, we went AGAIN. Being objective, we try to show the real China just as we saw in our eyes. What I really want to say here is that it's Tom let me know the real China, though I'm a real Chinese. It's him opened my eyes. Thank you so much! So for new readers of this blog, here please join us to experience this great trip (click on the name of the province below to read that post and see pictures from there). Have fun! And whether you are a global backpacker, and expat in China or an armchair traveler, please check out CHINA: Portrait of a People (published 2008 in Hong Kong by Blacksmith Books & Haven Books).

半年的中国游全纪录,行程全部如下:


1,时间:2006.06.04-06.20

游历省份:西藏Tibet
2,时间:2007.01.15
游历省份:天津Tianjin
3,时间:2007.02.20-03.06
游历省份:黑龙江Heilongjiang----吉林Jinlin----辽宁Liaoning
4,时间:2007.03.14-04.27
游历省份:青海Qinghai----甘肃Gansu----重庆Chongqing----贵州Guizhou----湖南Hunan----湖北Hubei----河南Henan----陕西Shaanxi----宁夏Ningxia----内蒙古Inner Mongolia----山西Shanxi----河北Heibei
4,时间:2007.05.13-07.29
游历省份:辽宁Liaoning----山东Shandong----河北Heibei----安徽Anhui----江西Jiangxi----浙江Zhejiang----江苏Jiangsu----上海Shanghai----福建Fujian----广东Guangdong----海南Hainan----澳门Macau----广东Guangdong----广西Guangxi----内蒙古Inner Mongolia

经过Tom Carter 两年时间的拍摄,一年时间的准备,CHINA: Portrait of A People 一书终于有香港出版社Blacksmith Books了,同时也受到了一些媒体的关注和好评,再次表示感谢,同时也希望有更多的朋友喜欢这本书关注这本书,谢谢!!!



These are some recent book review blurbs of CHINA: Portrait of a People:
“除非您想自己通过两年的时间艰苦跋涉,不怕艰难险形去拍摄您自己的图片,那这将是一本您书架上很值得学习的书籍。”- South China Morning Post
"Unless you want to undertake your own two-year trek through some of the mainland's most difficult terrain to take your own shots, this is a study well worth having on your bookshelf." - South China Morning Post
“CHINA: Portrait of a People不仅仅是一份亲华的田园诗般的纪念品,而是一份永久的文献,作为最真实而又有教育意义的当代书籍中的一本,传承一代又一代。”- New Asia Books
"CHINA: Portrait of a People is not just an idyllic souvenir for Sinophiles, but a timeless piece of literature that...can be passed down through the dynasties as one of the most honest and educational illustrated books on contemporary China ever published." - New Asia Books
http://www.newasiabooks.org/review/battle-china-portrait-books-0
“这本800张的图片集描绘了中国的美丽和全面,以及它的人民,这是永远也无法用言语来描绘的.”- the Beijinger
"The collection of 800 photos paints a beautiful, comprehensive portrait of China and its people in a way that words never could." - the Beijinger
“ China: Portrait of a People是一个国家一个时代巨大变化的写照,从中国人的多样、魅力及地理特征真实形象的勾勒出了我们中国人。也许这不会是一本畅销书,但作为社会纪实,有着非凡的持久价值。这不是一本关于长城或桂林等中国风景的咖啡桌书籍,同样这也不是一本旅游书籍,尽管它会更多的激发很多人想去亲眼看一下中国。”- China.Org
"China: Portrait of a People is a snapshot of an entire country in a time of great change; a truthful and touching portrayal of the Chinese people in all their variety, charm and earthiness. As such, even if it does not turn out a best-seller, it will have lasting value as a social document. This isn't a coffee table book of the Great Wall or the quintessentially Chinese landscapes of Guilin. It isn't a travel book either, although it may well inspire many to come see China for themselves." - China.Org
http://www.china.org.cn/culture/2008-12/11/content_16935071.htm
“跟其他摄影书籍不同的是,China: Portrait of a People (由Blacksmith Books出版, 635页,280元)是一本便携式的书籍。没有过多的地理风景或观光的照片,Carter注重诠释33个省市特区56个民族的特征和生活方式。”- Beijing Today
"Instead of similar photo books, China: Portrait of a People (published by Blacksmith Books, 635 pages, 280 yuan) is a more portable volume. Rather than focus on geographic, landscape or sight-seeing photos, Carter focuses on the distinct features and lifestyles that define the nation’s 56 ethnic groups collected in 33 provinces." - Beijing Today
http://bjtoday.ynet.com/article.jsp?oid=46139622
"Tom Carter是一位很特别的摄影师,他的作品强有力的抓住了中国人的心和灵魂。“- Anchee Min, author of Red Azalea and Empress Orchid
"Tom Carter is an extraordinary photographer whose powerful work captures the heart and soul of the Chinese people." - Anchee Min, author of Red Azalea and Empress Orchid
“Tom Carter 的图片书籍,真实客观的记录了中国人我们的生活方式。通过他的镜头广泛的让我们领略了33省的真实和梦幻。”- Mian Mian, author of Candy
"Tom Carter's photo book is an honest and objective record of the Chinese and our way of life- his camera leads us through 33 wide-sweeping scenes of the real and the surreal." - Mian Mian, author of Candy
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有关CHINA: Portrait of a People一书的所有评论您可以通过以下链接读取:
You can read ALL of the CHINA: Portrait of a People reviews here:
http://www.blacksmithbooks.com/9789889979942.htm
如果您需要购买我们的书,您可以在以下网站或北京书虫Bookworm和东八十区TimeZone 8(798内)购买:
And if you want to help support our book, you can purchase it only online at these links, or at these bookshops in Beijing at The Bookworm or TimeZone 8 (at 798):

http://www.blacksmithbooks.com/9789889979942.htm

http://www.havenbooksonline.com/shop/index.htm

http://www.51eng.com/cn/list/listys.asp?id=878709

视频连接:

And watch our music-photo videos below:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZyNeGJEpDjw


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pj1tqIg1SBU


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hXtCrUNmVM



Now please enjoy our China photo blog, and feel free to post a comment and let us know what you think...

Friday, July 20, 2007

Come to party, Resonant Sand Gorge and Grassland, 内蒙古


7月20号从南宁坐上火车,整整24个小时后到达石家庄。要等六个小时才到时间去呼和浩特。我在候车大厅看东西,Tom出去转悠。就在我等的间隙,Tom竟然意外的拍到了一直以来我们想要的大肚子。原来Tom进入一家小超市,主人刚好怀孕了,肚子是特别的大,很友好,主动跟Tom说话,知道Tom想照相,很爽快的同意了,在她丈夫的陪伴下,照完了,Tom也去附近的照相馆洗了出来给他们,彼此都很开心。尤其是我们,真是踏破铁鞋无觅处,得来全不费功夫!

7月22号早上终于到达了呼和浩特,这边正下着雨,找到hostel住下。这的hostel不能男女同屋,还好我们俩的房间隔的不是很远,都是四人间。




我进去的时候,已经有个日本女人住在里面,三四十岁的样子,不会说中文,也不会英文,而我日语早就忘光光了,竟然一个字也想不起来。之后住进来一个香港女生,是作为交换生到北京的,来这边玩。她之前去过很多地方,但都是一个人,喜欢一个人旅行,甚至去新疆一个多月都是一个人!小女生中文不错,英文更好,没想到日语也很不错,这样很快就跟日本女人聊上了。她来这边只有三四天,所以赶不上那达慕节,第二天就跟日本女人一块参加了hostel联系的旅行社去看草原和沙漠。




Tom的那屋住了个岁数大的老外,这个奇怪的老外每次都去中国的大城市的hostel住上几天,但从来不真正的出去玩。还有一个中国的男的呢,三十多岁,是个搞策划的,辞了职专门来内蒙古看寺庙研究的,据说之前学过佛学。他93年的时间就已经去过西藏了,之后又去过一次,甚至亲眼目睹过天葬。据说在天葬的过程中藏族人是大吃大喝唱歌的,很开心的。




我跟Tom还是原计划,逛完呼和浩特24号搭车去格根塔拉草原。就在我们要走的前一晚,我的屋进来两个人,一个中国人和一个黑人。这个中国人从头到尾都没有说一句中文,也不跟我说话,但这个黑人却大大相反,健谈友善。从她那知道,她们明天也跟我们一样要去格根塔拉草原那达慕盛会,但她们租了车几个人去,好像都是那个中国女的联系的。Anyway,大家还是各行其是。



早上的大巴车好挤,买的票只能到四王子旗,然后要找车才能去格根塔拉!好在车上有六七人都是去那的,刚好凑成一辆车,司机也不错,帮我们找了一辆车,半个小时之后到达格根塔拉。这边的住宿都是蒙古包,有两个人的,四个人的和六个人的,我们挑的是180的那种,是最便宜的,刚好同车一块来的两个女孩跟我们聊的不错,所以跟我们凑成一屋。所以对半分一个晚上90,我们都付了两个晚上的。




这是两个很奇怪的女孩,本来也没什么的,她们是老同学都是武汉来玩的,跟我差不多大,其中一个是学校的英文老师,爱说话,长得白皙文静,长长的手指会抽烟,男朋友在甘肃。另一个出国留学过,不爱说话,男友在深圳。我们所有的谈话跟问题都是第一个女孩回答的,即使有一些问题是问第二个女孩的,很奇怪,爱说话的女孩全部揽过去了。



这边的蒙古包都按号排着,用土跟石头垒的地基,里边只有一张红色的桌子和一个柜子,地上是瓷砖,上边铺了条毛毯。靠墙边上堆了六个人可以用的床铺的褥子和被子,晚上睡觉的时候就给打开铺在毛毯之上,帐篷里边有灯但没有可以充电的电源,需要的话要上服务大厅才有。白天的时候帐篷顶端可以拉开见光,晚上或者下雨的时候再给拉上。厕所在外边,每隔几排都有一个现代化的厕所,洗脸也在那。这里早晚好凉,洗脸的时候水更凉。当然这边还有很豪华的蒙古包,坐落在车轮之上。还有一些正在抓紧时间搭建。




正式的那达慕节是七月二十五号开幕,我们早一天到,刚好到处走走看看。这边已经有好多身着蒙古盛装的人欢迎着来客,可以合影。这边都没有饭馆,只有几个小吧,东西好贵的,羊肉串都要3块钱一串。离蒙古包不远的马路边上有个小饭馆,跟那两个女孩一块点的餐,同样是在帐篷里边,帐篷外边还有这刚切下来的羊头摆着那。点的葱爆羊肉,竟然没见着几片羊肉,全部都是葱头,其他的菜也很少,一点都不实惠。



内蒙古的草原好像已经不是概念中的一片郁郁葱葱,风吹草低现牛羊了。这边的草都稀稀拉拉的,贴着地,感觉就是一块平原,跟草原比起来真是相差甚远。但据说就连内蒙古也很少能见着以前的草原了,要到很远的呼伦贝尔几乎未开发的地方才能见着了。走在没有草的草原上,偶尔碰到一只骆驼,憨厚可爱的跟我们亲昵着。走的远点偶尔能碰到蒙古人家,用土跟草垒起来的房子,不会说普通话,靠养马生活。




晚上,这两个女孩回来拿了点东西,说是要住到刚认识的一个蒙古人家,所以整个晚上没有回来。第二天,这边就呈现出欢乐的节日气氛了,好多的人啊!往年的话那达慕都是要买票的,今年没有,但开幕式的表演要有票的人才可以进观众席,而且是买不到的,好在大家都能围着栏杆看。开幕式有很多的表演节目,骑马,摔跤,唱歌,蒙古服饰展示,很多。最让人激动的就是开始时候的入场,所以人都盛装而行,尤其是一堆高高的美女穿着皇宫贵族的华丽衣服带着冠,一步一步的走来,所有的相机都疯了。还有就是个矮矮胖胖的摔跤能手,才20岁,体重有110kg,也是大家争相抢拍的对象。



之后有很多可以玩的节目,像骑马骑骆驼,还有滑翔飞机,一次250一人。在这里,我们还真的碰到了之前我屋的那个中国人和那个黑人,这次这个中国女孩竟然主动跟我们打招呼,说的是中文,开始我都没认出她是谁,就是觉得好奇怪她主动跟我说话。她身边还站了一个雪白雪白的女子,好漂亮,原来是个泰国人,却混了无数个国家的血,在美国上学。不可思议,我黑的都被人认为是泰国人,而这位白的跟白雪公主一样。




整个那达慕节持续几天,但好像就开幕式热闹,下午之后就没什么了。



我骑了一次马,100块钱。头一次骑,有人带着,颠的我屁股好疼,稍微快点,心就感觉要跳出来了,不舒服。一直骑到敖包再回来。Tom对马过敏,所以躲的远远的。



这边有好多好多的骆驼放生着,而且这一片还真的是绿草白花,特别漂亮,据说是特别灌溉的结果。这里的骆驼也好热情,有只小不点,见了我们就跟见到妈妈一样,一个劲地跟我们撒娇,都不让我们走,动不动就纵起来,反倒把我俩吓坏了,再小的骆驼也比我们大呀。最后终于在小骆驼可怜巴巴的眼神中我们逃脱了。




第二天一大早我们就去等车拼车,运气不错,被我们等到了。还是到四王子旗,再到呼和浩特,再到东胜鄂尔多斯。还是淅沥沥的小雨,鄂尔多斯很一般,好小,刚刚兴起吧,还以为能找到很多制羊绒衣的厂子呢,一个都没找到,失望而归。



7月26号,从东胜赶往响沙湾,从高速路下车下来要走3公里才到目的地,其实也不是很远,只是我们俩的包都太沉了,每人两个包,后背加胸前,外加手里的塑料袋,跟万里长征一样,步履艰难。偶尔有车从身边路过,一打听要20块钱,才不。




走走歇歇,终于看到沙子了,胜利在望!先留念,这可是我们的最后一站啊!



到了所有大车停靠的地方,还得往下走,其实有车下去的,但我们错过了站,所以还是走了下去。还以为能住在沙漠里,但这边全部只能住在远离沙漠的房子里,都是标准间,好几百。虽然有缆车可以直接过去沙漠那边。我们还是决定背着包往下走,先去沙漠看看。竟然意外的发现下边还有便宜的蒙古包,才60块钱一晚,当下我们就付了钱。在老板娘那买了顶牛仔帽子、,十块钱。戴着帽子,酷酷的我们就出发了,进军沙漠,关卡的地方买了票,顺着天梯爬上沙漠,眼睛都不敢往下看,越往上爬腿越软,难以想象旁边的人幸福的在从上往下滑,那岂不是心都跳出来了?




在沙漠里竟然也有过山车,看着从这个山头爬上那个山头,再嗖的下来,听着上边人的哦哦的直叫,还是很刺激的。还有好多骑骆驼的。还有美丽的沙雕,栩栩如生,巨大无比。都是一些艺术院校的学生做的,表面用一些特殊的胶体能维持半年左右。



我跟Tom就一直往沙漠深处走去,没有人的地方,因为大家其实都是在沙漠的边缘游玩一下。但只有真正往里走的时候才能真正领略到沙漠的一望无际的美。金黄金黄色的,在阳光下闪。响沙湾,带喇叭的沙丘,顾名思义,就是会叫会发出声音的,据说是轻则如青蛙“呱呱”的叫声,重则像汽车、飞机轰鸣,又如惊雷贯耳,更像一曲激昂澎湃的交响乐。只不过不巧的是,这几天都是灰蒙蒙下雨的天气,沙子不够干,我们也无法领略响沙湾的神奇。




跟着Tom爬过一个一个沙漠山头,有些低洼之处长着绿草,高高的山头爬上去容易,下去就只能滑或者跑了,陡陡的高高的,边跑边叫,要不就躺在沙丘上,淡淡的阳光下躺着,真是不想走,也不脏,就是满身沙。所有的沙丘就跟鬼斧神工一样,无边无际,煞是好看,只可惜,天不够好,阳光不足,没能留其神韵!



第二天还是灰蒙蒙的天,我们就打算不停留了,早上得去包头,中间还得转一趟车。谁知到达的车站是包头东,乱七八糟的,周围也没有什么大的商店,人更是嘈杂无比,什么人都有。就这样,我们突然间决定不去包头了,直接回家回北京,结束这次旅程,给半年的背包生活画上句号。




在我们等在火车站的时候,Tom出去转悠,给我爸买了瓶奶酒。之后我去买水果。怎么都没想到,我竟然被人打了。事情是这样的,火车站广场那有好多卖水果的,人一看都是些粗人,本来我想买芒果的,但巨大每个都超过一斤多。后来我在一家挑了三个桃,一块五一斤,桃不大,那个中年妇女说一斤多,要一块六,本来我就觉得分量不够,就说一块五吧,谁知道这个女的特别横,马上变脸了,不好意思,我最讨厌这样的,不顺心我才不买呢。这个疯狂的女人竟然马上抓了把她卖的瓜子扔了我一身,我哪受过这个啊,而且莫名其妙嘛,紧接着我也抓了一把回敬给她。这下我惨了,马上我的头遭到她的恶打,我别说打她了,劲都扭不过她。旁边的小贩还叫嚣着打我。我手里买的薯片什么的全部都掉到地上了,我当时都傻了,真是又想哭又气,蹬蹬的就往候车室Tom那跑,连地上的薯片都不管了。



Tom都不敢相信,但他说算了,把东西捡回来。




我委屈的,我长这么大,哪受过这个啊,连爸妈都没碰过一下,今天竟然让这个疯婆子给打了,简直无法无天,而且她打的那么狠,说什么也不能就这样。越想越不服气,我平生第一次报了警,打了110。然后我就去捡我的薯片,那个死女人竟然瞪我,恶狠狠的。就这样,我心里算计着,然后以迅雷不及掩耳的速度把她其中一袋瓜子扔到地上,赶紧往火车站里跑,可怜的是,功亏一篑,我竟然跑不过她,还是被这个疯婆子抓住了。Tom看到的一幕就是这个泼妇拖着我往外走,我狂喊救命,这样她至少不敢打我了。然后所有广场上的人都围过来,竟然所有的矛头都指向我,说我欺负老人,拜托这个女的也就三四十岁,还有人直接就从背后打我。Tom赶紧找到候车室的工作人员帮忙看包,出来救我。好在警察很快就过来了,马上让我走了,那个死女人还拼命的拽着我,简直疯了。我手胳膊都给抓破了。太可恶了。好在有惊无险,平安的跟Tom回到了候车室。工作人员听说后,说肯定又是那个女的,老是闹事。我气得全身都在发抖。Tom庆幸的是幸好我出去是没戴我的帽子,不然更像外地来的,更要挨揍了L!




真是没想到,最后的结束之旅竟然是这个样子的,半年来哪没去啊,竟然回家前被人莫名其妙的给揍了。开始气的要死,后来想想就开始笑,太不可思议了。尤其是当Tom跟所有候车室的人看着我被那个疯子拖出去的情景,简直就跟演电视一样!

啦啦啦,不管怎样,坐上四点的火车终于可以回家了。

7月29号早上五点多就到北京站了,六点半到家。

呵呵,把包包往地上一扔,赶紧上床睡大觉,什么都不想了,脏不脏也是醒来的事情了!哈哈,幸福的时刻终于来到了!!!




###谢谢大家支持摄影记者Tom Carter的摄影集China:Portrait of a People,全书640页涵盖了中国所有的33个省市特区。在线购买Blue Fontaine, Blacksmith BooksHaven Books,来看看我们自制的中国明信片和YouTube上的《中国人物》《中国建筑》系列的精彩视频吧




China Photography
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Come to party, Resonant Sand Gorge and Grassland, Inner Mongolia

In July 20 sit from Nanning boards the train, entire 24 hours later arrives at Shijiazhuang. Must wait for six hours only then to arrive at the time to go to Huhhot. I look at the thing in the waiting hall, Tom exit to saunter. Since the gap which waits in me, Tom unexpectedly accidental pats being pregnant which we have wanted. Originally Tom entered a small supermarket, the master has just been pregnant, the belly was special big, was very friendly, spoke on own initiative with Tom, knew that Tom wanted to photograph, the very refreshed agreement, under her husband's accompanying, according to, Tom has also gone to the nearby photo studio to wash came out to give them, each other was very happy. Especially we, are really you wear out iron shoes in hunting round, must come to not need the effort!

In July 22 earlies morning finally arrived at Huhhot, here is raining, finds hostel to stay. This hostel cannot the male and female roommate, our room gap not be very far fortunately, is four worlds.

I go, already had the Japanese women to live in inside, 30-40 year-old appearance, will not speak Chinese, also not English, but my Japanese already forgot to be smooth, a character could also not think unexpectedly. Afterward is admitted to a Hong Kong female student, is lives as the exchange to Beijing, here comes to play. Before her, has gone to many places, but is a person, likes a person travelling, even goes to Xinjiang more than one months is a person! Young female student Chinese is good, English is better, had not thought that Japanese is also very good, such very quick chatted with the Japanese women. Here she comes only then for 34 days, therefore cannot catch up with the Nadam festival, the second day together participated in the hostel relation travel agency with the Japanese women to look at the prairie and the desert.

Tom that room has been occupied by the age big foreigner, this strange foreigner each time goes to China's big city hostel to stay for several days, but always untrue exits to play. Also some China male, over 30 years old, are do the plan, resigned come Inner Mongolia to look that specially the temple research, it is said before has studied the Buddhist studies. He 93 year already had gone to Tibet, afterward has gone one time, even has witnessed the celestial burial. It is said the Tibetan eats and drinks extravagantly in the celestial burial process sings, is very happy.

I with Tom or the original plan, stroll Huhhot 24 to travel by vehicle Gergen the Tala prairie. Preceding evening which wants in us, my room comes in two people, a Chinese and a black. This Chinese has not spoken a Chinese from beginning to end, also does not speak with me, but this black greatly is actually opposite, talkative friendly. Knew from her that they also equally must go to Gergen tomorrow with us the Tala prairie Nadam grand meeting, but they rented a car several people to go, probably is that Chinese female relation. Anyway, everybody each does what he thinks is right.

Early morning's bus Che Haoji, buys the ticket can only to four princes the flag, then probably look for the vehicle to be able Gergen Tala! Is good has 67 people on the vehicle is goes to that just added up to a vehicle, the driver is also good, helps us to look for a vehicle, a half hour later arrived at Gergen Tala. Here lodging is a yurt, two people, four people and six people, what we select is 180 that kind, is cheapest, just takes the same bus two girls who comes together good which chats with us, therefore adds up to a room with us. Therefore to half minute one evening 90, we have paid two evenings.

This is two very strange girls, also does not have anything originally, they are old schoolmates are Wuhan play, is almost big with me, one is school English teacher, likes speaking, is much longer gently, the long finger can smoke, boyfriend in Gansu. Another has gone abroad to study, does not like speaking, boyfriend in Shenzhen. Our all conversations with the question are the first girl replied that even if has some questions to held responsible the second girl, was very strange, likes the girl who spoke embracing completely.

Here yurt presses the number to arrange, with the earth the ground which builds with the stone, inside has a red table and a cabinet, ground is the ceramic tile, above has spread the strip wool blanket. On has piled bunk's mattress which and the quilt depending on the wall nearby six people may use, evening sleeps time gives opens the shop above the wool blanket, inside the tent has the power source which the lamp but does not have to be possible to charge, needs the words want on to serve the hall only then to have. Daytime's time tent peak may pull open is exposed to light, evening or rains time gives again draws. The restroom in outside, every several other rows has a modernized restroom, washes the face also in that. Here will be sooner or later good coolly, washes the face time Shui Gengliang. Certainly here also has the very luxurious yurt, is situated above the wheel. Also has some save time build.

The official Nadam festival is in July 25 begins, our one day, just everywhere walks early has a look. Here already many wore the Mongolian splendid attire's person to welcome the guest, may take a group photo. Here does not have the restaurant, has several slightly, thing good expensive, the skewered mutton takes a 3 dollar string. On has a small restaurant to the yurt not far street nearby, with that two girls meal, is inside similarly together the tent, outside the tent also has the sheep's head which this just cut down to suspend that. A onion explodes the mutton, has not been seeing several mutton unexpectedly, is the onion completely, other vegetables are also very few, a spot is not materially beneficial.

Inner Mongolia's prairie was probably already not in concept green and luxuriant, the breeze blow grass low present cattle and sheep. Here grass is sparse, pastes is well-grounded, felt that is together the plain, compares with the prairie is really far from. But it is said Inner Mongolia also very little could see the beforehand prairie, must arrive at the very far Hulunbuir development the place not to be able to see nearly. Walks in does not have on grass's prairie, occasionally bumps into a camel, simple and honest lovable is being affectionate with us. Walks the distant point occasionally can bump into Mongolian others, with the earth the house which builds with the grass, will not speak the standard spoken Chinese, depending on horse breeding life.

Evening, these two girls came back to take a thing, said that was must live to Mongolian others who just knew, therefore the entire evening has not come back. Next day, here presented the happy festive atmosphere, many people! Old times' words Nadam was needs to buy a ticket, this year does not have, but opening ceremony's performance must have the ticket talented person to be possible to enter the auditorium, moreover was cannot buy, was good can gather round the parapet in everybody to look. The opening ceremony has many giving a performance, rides a horse, the wrestling, sings, the Mongolian clothing demonstrated that many. Time most thrilling starts the admission, therefore people splendid attire, but the line, pile of high beautiful women put on the imperial palace aristocrat's magnificent clothes to bring the crown particularly, gradually walks, all cameras were insane. Also has is the short and stout wrestling expert, only then 20 years old, the body weight has 110kg, is also the object which everybody struggles grabs the moment to take a picture.

Afterward has the program which many may play, rides a horse likely rides the camel, but also has the glide airplane, 2501 people. In here, we also really before having bumped into, my room's that Chinese and that black, this Chinese girls greets unexpectedly on own initiative with us, what said is Chinese, who starts me not to recognize her is, is thought felt strange she speaks on own initiative with me. Her side has also stood a snow white female, good attractive, originally is a Thai, actually mixed the innumerable national blood, goes to school in the US. Inconceivable, I black am thought by the human am the Thai, but this white is the same with Snow White.

The entire Nadam festival continues for several days, but is probably lively on the opening ceremony, after in the afternoon, did not have anything.

I have ridden a horse, 100 dollars. First time rides, some people are bringing, jolts my buttocks good sore, a bit faster, the heart felt slightly must jump, was uncomfortable. Has ridden to the Mongolian cairn comes back again. Tom to horse allergy, therefore hides by far.

Here has many many camels to set free a captured animal, what moreover this piece also is really the green grass lap waste, is specially attractive, it is said is the result which irrigates specially. Here camel also good enthusiasm, has a tiny tot, saw us with to see mother to be the same, acted like a spoiled brat with us, did not ask us to leave, often on vertical, has scared on the contrary both of us, the small camel was also bigger than us. Finally we escaped finally in the small camel pitiful look.

The second day we wait for the vehicle load on one truck, the luck to be good very early, is waited till by us. To four princes the flag, again arrives at Huhhot, arrives at the Dongsheng Erdos again. Patter drainings the light rain, Erdos is very ordinary, good is small, just emerged, but also thought that could find many system sheep sweatshirt's factory, had not found, disappointed turned over.

In July 26, rush to sound Shawan from Dongsheng, gets out down from the high speed road to walk 3 kilometers only then to arrive at the destination, is actually not very far, was only our Bao Dutai has sunk, each person of two packages, the back added the front, in the sur- hand's plastic bag, was the same with the Long March, walks with difficulty. Occasionally had the vehicle to pass by from the side, as soon as inquired that took 20 dollars, only then not.

Walks rests, saw the sand finally, victory is in sight! Accepts as a memento first, this is we last station!

To the place which all large carts anchored, but must downward walk, actually had the vehicle to get down, but we have missed the station, therefore walked. Also thought that can live in the desert, but here can only live completely in is far away from the desert in the house, is the standard, several hundred. Although has the cable car to be possible to pass directly that side the desert. We decided that carries the package downward to walk, goes to the desert to have a look first. Under the unexpectedly accidental discovery also has the small advantage yurt, only then 60 dollar one evening, immediately we paid money. Bought in proprietress that has gone against the cowboy hat, ten dollars. Wears the hat, very cool we embarked, marches the desert, the checkpoint place buyed a ticket, is suitable the tall ladder to climb up the desert, the eye does not dare downward to look, more upward crawls the leg to be softer, imagines side with difficulty the human happy in toward slides from, did that heart jump?

Unexpectedly also has the roller coaster in the desert, looks that climbs up that mountain top from this mountain top, whiz getting down, is listening to above the human again oh oh calls straight, stimulates very much. Also many ride the camel. Also has the beautiful sand sculpture, lifelike, huge incomparable. Is some art academies student does, the surface can maintain about a half year with some special colloids.

I have walked with Tom toward the desert deep place, nobody's place, because everybody is actually plays in the desert edge. But only then truly the time which walks toward in can truly understand desert vast US. Golden yellow golden yellow, dodges under the sunlight. Sound Shawan, brings loudspeaker's sand dune, will be as the name suggests will call to make the sound, it is said that will be the light like frog “quack quack” the cry, the heavy piece of elephant automobile, the airplane will thunder, also like the startling thunderclap will pass through the ear, will look like the symphony which a tune will rush spiritedly. What but unfortunately is, these days are the weather which rains dusky, the sand are not very dry, we are also unable to understand the sound Shawan's mystery.

Is climbing over one by one desert mountain top with Tom, somewhat low-lying department head the green grass, the high mountain top is crawling easily, got down only to be able to slide or to run, steep high, ran while calls, or lay down on the sand dune, under the light sunlight was lying down, really did not want to walk, also not dirty, was the whole body sand. All sand dunes are the same with the clever axe finger of God, limitless, is really attractive, was only a pity, the day is not very good, the sunlight is insufficient, has not been able to keep its charm!

The second day of dusky day, we planned that does not pause, in the morning goes to Baotou, middle must transfer the vehicle. Who knows the station which arrives is east Baotou, at sixes and sevens, the surroundings also do not have what big store, the human are noisy incomparable, any people have. Then, we suddenly decided that did not go to Baotou, went home directly Beijing, finished this journey, marked the period for a half year knapsack life.

In we wait in train station time, Tom exits to saunter, has bought the bottle milk liquor to my father. Afterward I buy the fruit. How hadn't thought that I am hit unexpectedly by the human. The matter is this, train station square that has many sells the fruit, as soon as the human looked that is a careless person, I want to buy the mango originally, but huge each surpasses more than one catty. Afterward I have selected three peach in one, one 51 catties, the peach are not big, that middle-aged woman said that more than one catty, must six, I think the short weight originally together, said that five, who knew this female specially horizontal, turned hostile immediately, embarrassed, I most dislike like this, is not satisfactory I only then not to buy. This crazy woman grasped the melon seed which sold her to throw unexpectedly immediately my body, which have I received this, moreover was bewildered, followed closely me also to grasp has retaliated for her. I have been then miserable, let alone my first time to hers vicious beating, I hit her immediately, the vigor turned her. The side peddler also clamors is hitting me. In my hand buys potato chips anything fell completely to ground, I had been at that time silly, was really wants to cry to be mad, mounted the pedal to run toward waiting room Tom that the ground potato chips did not manage.

Tom does not dare to believe that but he said considers as finished, picks the thing.

I put, I long such big, which has received this, has not bumped including father and mother, today let this insane married woman for hit unexpectedly, was simply lawless, moreover she hit that ruthlessly, said anything not to be able like this. More wants to jump over is not convinced, the my always first time reported to the police, has hit 110. Then I pick my potato chips, that dead woman stares me unexpectedly, wicked. Then, I at heart am planning, then throws by the speed quickly her bag of melon seeds ground, hurries to run toward the train station, what is pitiful, falls short, I run unexpectedly she, is held by this insane married woman. Tom saw one is this vixen tows me toward the outside to walk, I shout wildly save a life, like this she did not dare to hit me at least. Then in all square's people encircle, unexpectedly all spear points aim at me, said that I bully old person, asks this female also 30-40 years old, but also some people hit me directly from the behind. Tom hurries the staff who found the waiting room to help to look at the package, came out to rescue me. Was good very quickly has come in police, asked me to leave immediately, that dead woman also went all out to entrain me, was simply insane. My hand arm gave scratches and tears. Too hateful. Is good is being shocking but not dangerous, safe returned to the waiting room with Tom. After the staff hear, said that definitely is also that female, always causes trouble. I am mad the whole body to tremble. What Tom rejoiced is I exits not to wear my hat luckily, otherwise looks like the outside areas to come, must take a beating L!
Really had not thought that travel of the final conclusion was unexpectedly this appearance, which for a half hasn't year gone, went home, to be bewildered before unexpectedly by the human for punches. Starts to be mad must die, afterward thinks that starts to smile, was too inconceivable. Especially when Tom with all waiting room's person looks that I scene which is towed by that lunatic, with develops the television to be the same simply!

No matter what, sat four spots the train to be possible to go home finally.

In July 29 past 5:00 am arrived at Beijing station, 6:30 were proficient.

As soon as ha-ha, toward ground throws the pocket, hurries to go to bed sleeps, anything did not think that dirty was also the matter which woke! Ha, the happy time arrived finally!!!

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Friday, July 13, 2007

世界第五长寿之乡,多彩的少数民族,广西



7月13号,早早的坐车从连南到连州,七点再坐车从连州到达广西八步(贺州),再从贺州坐四个半小时的车才到桂林。其实从地图上看桂林跟连南很近,只是这边全部是山区,所以折腾到下午四点才到达桂林。Hostel就在漓江边上,好多人都在漓江里游泳。在hostel里安顿下来,我们就带上泳衣直接来到漓江。




漓江,小学的时候就从课本上知道,漓江水的美和清灵。漓江水很浅,很清却很急。踩着脚下的石卵石,很咯脚,根本就站不稳。虽然其他的人都欢声笑语的在水里嬉闹着,但对我这不会游的人来说一点都不好玩,水流的湍急,我一漂浮就顺着水顺势而下,止都止不住,更不用说能自己站起来了。Tom来救我往上带的时候,逆水而上特别费劲,所以玩了两下就不好玩了。




余下来的时间就逛街吃小吃。Hostel的地理位置很好,到步行街只有几分钟那么远。这边是人来人往,步行街上的小吃多的应接不暇,尤其是桂林米粉店,都连着,太多了。先是吃各式的串串,炸的烫的,围着的人好多,吃的人看着好香,我们也要了好多,但到了我们嘴里觉得一点都不好吃,回想那炸的油都发黑了。



寿司小店,Tom的肚子不好,所以决定吃这个,很精致,味道不错。




我打算尝一下桂林米粉,挑了其中一家店,这边外边都摆了很多的大排档,龙虾什么的一大堆,很诱人。我们就要了盘小西红柿,加一碗素炒河粉。奇怪,不明白怎么个好吃法,感觉很一般,而且分量好少,几根青菜。等付账的时候,素炒河粉竟然要10块钱,接着我又发现邻桌的那边的菜单跟我点的不一样。一看价钱,更是差了好多,那上边肉的炒粉也才8块钱。我问服务员,服务员说不出所以然,只能闷闷的说可能搞错了吧。不服气,要他们经理跟我道歉,为什么给我的菜单不一样。经理说以为你是老外啊,怎么知道你能看懂中文菜单,还特自以为是,说什么都不道歉。我拿菜单,他们就拦着来抢,这条街的餐馆都特红火,他们家也不例外,所以我直接走进他们屋里的餐厅,告知大家这边有两份不同价格的菜单,说完,我把菜单一扔,就走了。




真没想到,如此一遭。其实,老外的价格要高一些,哪都有发生。但我就那么坐在那,直白白的在我眼鼻子底下欺负人,太不要脸了。



不管怎样,这种事情在人家的地盘上,还是赶紧闪的好!呵呵!



我们还在hostel的告示栏上写了要小心!




Hostel,我们屋是六个床位,我们进去的时候已经有一人入住的,是个男的中国人。当他看到我时,惊讶的不得了,hostel怎么可以男女同屋呢。我说基本上hostel都是可以的。他还惊讶连连的说,他旅游过很多地方,还是头一次碰到。真是大惊小怪!让我高兴的是,我们之后又有两个英国女子入住,哈哈,我好庆幸是女的,而不是男的,让这人长长见识。这两个女的才19,20岁,很年轻,之前游了泰国,晒得是黑白分明。让人羡慕的是,其中一个女子有一个日记本,每一天的日程都写在里边,特别的详细,还有一些纪念的小贴士。再看我的,虽然Tom每天都提醒我写日记,可我总是累的提不起劲来,也就大概写了一下行程。比起她们的来,真是让我惭愧!她们的是多么的有纪念意义啊,还可以世代相传,作为珍宝!




Hostel楼梯拐角那有DVD可看,那两个女孩在那看13 goings to 30,女主角是Ailla里的那位,超喜欢。所以我也加入了她们的行列。回来之后我还买了碟,看了一遍又一遍。



第二天醒来,竟然在下雨,Tom没有动静,我竟然会睡不着,就在那躺着翻来覆去。起来后,下午就在桂林市里边转。Wow,桂林美在山水,特别的是城市里也是山,居民楼贴着山而起。老年人休闲娱乐也在山洞里,凉快又避雨,还有的人住在山洞里。庙也是连着山洞,好奇特。桂林市这还有一个岛村,船上人家捕着鱼。上了岛,在这里,竟然有斗鸡的,帐篷下,围了好多人,场下主人查看斗鸡的状况,场上的两只鸡正激烈的斗着,好不热闹!




7月15号,还是下着雨,10点多起得床去车站,买了车票去南宁。从11:40一直下午四点多才到,背着包折腾了几个车站最后确定还是在火车站附近入住。



没有hostel,问了几家,最后我们住进了朝阳酒店,这里边不贵,50一间,有空调。后来我们才发现这里边有好多的背包老外入住。我们的那间在三层。




三楼的拐弯处有好多的年轻女的坐着聊天,都还年轻,但长得一般。Tom猜肯定是那种。果不其然,晚上就有电话进来,我接的,没声音。第二次,电话响,Tom接的,一个女的问要不要按摩,Tom恶作剧的问了多少钱,然后说好啊。一会还真的有人来敲门了,我应得门。一个不高不瘦中等身材的女的,长得还可以吧,肯定没想到会是个女的开门,愣愣的问我刚才是不是有人打的电话。我告诉她肯定是搞错房间了。呵呵!




跟酒店打听到百色应该还有穿传统衣服的,所以我们决定先去我在网上查到的巴马,完了之后再去百色。第二天一早就坐上车花了四个小时才来到巴马。



资料显示:广西巴马瑶族自治县是一处至今仍保持完好原始生态的处女地,这边有很多神奇的魔洞,更是世界第五的长寿之乡。但巴马县这边还是什么都看不到的,我们先找店住下,再打听。




先是来到了甲篆乡,这边刚好是赶集的日子,只是时间已不早了,人也不是很多。在这里,头一次看到用一米左右长十公分那么粗的竹子抽水烟,还有壮族的女人叼着烟斗做买卖。临近就有一个壮族村子,刚割完稻子,在地里好多忙着的都是七八十岁的老人,瘦瘦的,但精神头特好。这边都是山区,老人也不闲着,加上空气好水好,乐乐呵呵的,自然就长寿了。




耳闻远处的巴盘屯村,那里有得是百岁的老人,为了一睹老寿星的风采,我们又搭上了一辆摩托车,往山里深处去。这边很穷,房子都很破,一到村子口,就看到世界第五长寿之乡—巴盘屯的指示牌。村子很小,跟村里人一打听,百岁老人,大家都知道,指着一个新盖的房子说那就是,在家呢。其实还是挺奇怪的,感觉好像谁都知道是来这看百岁老人的。后来才知道,这个可是当地旅行社必须安排的一项日程呢。迎接我们的是老人的孙子,都三十好几了,已是几个孩子的父亲,但看上去也就二三十岁。等百岁老人出来,声音洪亮,精瘦矍铄,精神头特好,尤其是跟我们握手的时候手劲可大了,真是难以置信这已是109岁的高龄了。墙上有一副好几年前照的村里百岁老人的合影,其他的都不在了,虽然现在村里还有很多百岁的老人,但眼前的这位是村里年龄最大的一位。有很多人专程远道而来探望老人,光是从日本来的就好几个。真是没想到,我们误打误撞又找到了宝贝,呵呵!




拜访完老人回到巴马县已是傍晚。第二天要去东山乡的巴根屯,不确定能不能回来,所以我们直接背上包去巴根屯。这边的车其实是小面包,10块钱一位,要拼六个人,因为路途遥远而且路还不好走,都是在山里,所以每天来这的车只有一两趟,车要等满了才可以走,不然就不去的。还好今天有车也有人,坐上车11:30才到,我们跟司机确定下午两点的时候还会有车回去。司机很好心的帮我们找了这边住的地方,如果赶不及我们可以在这边住一晚。放下东西,我们就往后边山坡道德巴根屯走去,也就一千米左右。




村子不大,很漂亮,有好多竹编的房子,外边好看但里边一无所有,很黑,很空,什么东西都放在一起。这边的房子一座座都是红色的顶,零零落落20多座,嵌在山坳坳里,红绿相间,有趣的村子。村里还有一个很大的圆亭,节日的时候大家都聚到这里穿上最美丽的布努瑶的衣服欢歌笑语,共聚一堂。可惜的是就在我们来的前几天,这边刚欢庆过祝著节,所有瑶族的姑娘在此欢庆,穿上最隆重的华丽的衣裳,电视台的摄影的都蜂拥而此。而我们竟然不知道,错过了最好的拍摄时机。现在一个穿瑶族服饰的没有。为了见识到美丽的瑶族服饰,我们找到一对漂亮的姐姐和堂弟给我们展示了他们的衣服,真的是很漂亮。虽然俩人的衣服都是藏黑色的,但女孩衣襟和袖口上都绣了彩线,腰上拴着五彩珠子穿成的穗加红线,更是有一个圆的银棒,长约20公分,一到两厘米粗,两端有小人图案。脖子上挂的长长的五颜六色的珠子项链和大大的银圈带着铃铛垂在胸前,美丽的头饰,藏青布包着,围上各种颜色的小花点缀着银箍,后边插了好多的银簪,从左侧甩过来的白底带红蓝条纹带穗的巾子,两侧是鲜艳的红线。男的只是头上缠了藏青色的布,两侧垂了好多红线。如此美服加上俊俏佳人,真是养眼。




一点半我们就在下车的地方等车了,一直等到两三点都没有车。这边的人说只能等明天早上六点多的车了。附近有个学校,但没上课没人。只有其中一间里边有三个小姑娘在用手掰玉米粒,地上铺满了掰下来的玉米,她们整个就坐在上边,很开心。




东山乡很小,没有什么可看的,四五点了,天色也暗了,我们在山坡上碰到掰玉米的一家四口,妈妈和三个孩子,两个女孩,一个男孩,最大也不过十一二岁。爸爸已经过世了,现在他们都要背着筐,爬下山坡在一大片的玉米地里掰满了筐,再背上爬上坡倒在路边。我们跟着他们往下爬,一眨眼,他们就不见了,我跟Tom还在一步一步的看路,踩着脚下的石头,小心翼翼的下去。等他们上来的时候,我们再跟着往上爬,对我们来说,这简直就是悬崖峭壁,但他们不到十岁的孩子背着筐一下子就上去了。看着他们真的是感慨万千,真的是城里的孩子不能跟农村的比,农村的孩子不能跟山里的比!




虽然住的这家是开饭馆的,下午等车的时候,看着别人在这一碗碗的吃着米线,但我们实在是吃不下去,还好,我们还有一些粮食,也就随便打发了,我还在小铺买了两包榨菜啃起来。晚上睡觉住的是三层的一个房间,但上厕所要上二层,厕所连着小山。房间里只有两张很窄的小床,有蚊帐,但房间里一股味道。晚上好热,没有电扇开着窗户都不管用,还有蚊子。床上只有一张席子,硌的都疼,没法睡觉,这一晚上好难熬。




7月18号,六点就坐上车,司机竟然还是昨天的那位。回到巴马,花了两个半小时坐车来到百色。原以为在百色能看到好多的当地人穿当地的衣服,但不想百色其实是个大的城市,我们什么都看不到。突然间就觉得累了,所以我们决定马上坐车回南宁,不想待了。偏是我哪根经错了,竟然说服Tom做火车回南宁吧。当然其中一个原因是便宜一半钱呢,回南宁的车票好贵啊,都快一百块钱了。买完票就后悔了,要在火车站等三个多小时呢,真是百无聊赖,候车室又热的要死,头顶上的电扇根本就起不来作用。开始还没什么人,后来人越来越多,又热又吵。等上了车,真是挤,还是三个人的座位,真是悔不当初!唯一好的是在车站附近买了四五斤的当地青芒,才一块钱一斤,甜的不得了,真是太好吃了。怪不得等车的人都是成箱的拎着。




17:50的车,等回到南宁都21点了,朝阳酒店只剩两间房间了,一间在楼梯口,一间在二层,没有之前住的好,但没办法来的太晚了,没得挑了,又是坐火车的结果。



我们的下一站是内蒙古呼和浩特。车票是16号买的,因为是旅游季节,所以车票根本就买不着更不用说卧铺了,而且没有直达到呼和浩特的,必须要在石家庄转车。所以我们只得买了两张20号的坐票从南宁9:10到石家庄第二天的9:45,要整整24个小时还多半个小时,然后再换车到呼和浩特。还好从石家庄到呼和浩特的票15:52当天连上了,尽管要在车站等五六个小时,我们还是很高兴,而且终于这次买到的是卧铺。




7月19号,放松了一下,只是逛逛南宁,一个大大的城市,好像也没什么好玩的。倒是问路的时候碰到一个愚蠢的男的和一个神经凶悍的女的,两人都穿着制服,帮助别人的,男的不知道,女的态度恶劣还口出恶言!神经病的母老虎错了神经呀!



不管怎样,在这边的家乐福购了好多东东,为第二天的旅程做足了准备。



7月20号,早上九点的火车,带着我们开往我们本次旅程的最后一站----内蒙古!!!!!




###谢谢大家支持摄影记者Tom Carter的摄影集China:Portrait of a People,全书640页涵盖了中国所有的33个省市特区。在线购买Blue Fontaine, Blacksmith BooksHaven Books,来看看我们自制的中国明信片和YouTube上的《中国人物》《中国建筑》系列的精彩视频吧!




China Photography
###

Township of the world fifth longevity, multi-color national minority, Guangxi

In July 13, going by car early from Liennan to continually the state, seven spots again goes by car from the state arrives at Guangxi continually eight steps (Hezhou), again Che Caidaowho sits four-and-a-half hours from Hezhou Guilin. Actually from the map looked that Guilin is very near with Liennan, is only here is the mountainous area completely, therefore tosses about to 4:00 pm only then arrives at Guilin. Hostel nearby the Lijiang River on, many people swims in the Lijiang River. Gets down calmly in hostel, we take to bring with the swim suit to arrive at the Lijiang River directly.

Lijiang River, elementary school's time knew from the textbook that flowings the river water US and the clear spirit. Flowings the river water to be very shallow, very clear is very actually anxious. Is stepping on under foot's stone pebbles, the foot, cannot come to a stop very much. Although other people happy talks and laughters are kidding around in the water, but will not tour to my this a person spot is unamusing, as soon as the fluent rapids, I will float am suitable the water to take advantage of opportunity, will stop cannot stop, say nothing of could stand. Tom rescues my upward belt's time, but against the current on specially uses energy, therefore plays two has been unamusing.

In addition the time which comes window-shops eats the snack. The Hostel geographical position is very good, has several minutes that far to the pedestrian street. Here is crowded, in pedestrian street snack many accepting, Guilin Rice noodle Shop, is linking particularly, were too many. Is first eats various types the string, explodes burns, gathers round the human many, eats the human looks at the fragrance, we have also wanted many, but to our between lips had thought that a spot is not delicious, recalled that explodes the oil became dark.

The sushi shop, the Tom belly is not good, therefore the decision eats this, is very fine, the flavor is good.

I planned that tastes the Guilin rice noodle, has selected a shop, here outside has suspended many big gears, lobster anything a big pile, is very attractive. We have wanted the plate small tomato, adds bowl of elements to fry the rice noodle. Strange, did not understand that delicious method, the feeling is very how ordinary, moreover component good few, several green vegetables. And so on pays a bill, usually fries the rice noodle to take 10 dollars unexpectedly, then I discovered that the neighbouring table that side menu selects with me is dissimilar. As soon as looks at the price, has missed many, above that the meat fries the powder also only then 8 dollars. I ask the service person, the service person cannot say the reason why, can only be depressed said that possibly made a mistake. It is not convinced, wants their manager to apologize with me, why gives my menu not to be dissimilar. Manager said that thought you are the foreigner, how to know that you can understand Chinese menu, but also thinks oneself infallible especially, said that anything does not apologize. I take the menu, they block are snatching, this street's restaurant especially is prosperous, their family is not exceptional, therefore I enter in their room directly the dining room, informs everybody to have two difference in price menus, said that as soon as, I throw the menu, walked.

Had not thought really, so. Actually, foreigner's price wants high somewhat, which has the occurrence. But I that sit in that straight in vain bullies the human in my eye under one's nose, is too not concerned about face.

No matter what, this kind of matter in others' domain, hurries good which dodges! Ha-ha!

We also wrote on the hostel bulletin fence must be careful!

Hostel, our room is six beds, we go in already had one person to move, is a male Chinese. When he sees me, surprised serious, how can hostel the male and female roommate. I said that basically hostel is may. He also surprised again and again said that he has travelled many places, the first time bumps into. Really makes much ado about nothing! Those who let me happy is, after us, two British females move, ha, I good rejoiced that is female, but is not male, lets this person grow in experience. These two female only then 19,20 years old, is very young, before has toured Thailand, exposes to the sun is in sharp contrast. What is enviable, a female has a diary, each day-long program writes in inside, special detailed, but also has some commemoration small tips. Looks at me again, although Tom reminds me to keep a diary every day, but I always tired raise come not vigorously, also has written a down stroke on the general idea. Compares their coming, really lets me be ashamed! They are how have the commemoration significance, but may also pass on from generation to generation, takes the treasure!

Hostel staircase corner that has DVD to look that two girls in that looked 13 goings to 30, the leading lady is in Ailla that position, ultra likes. Therefore I have also joined their ranks. After coming back, I have also bought the small dish, looked again and again.

The second day wakes, is raining unexpectedly, Tom does not have the sound of something astir, I unexpectedly will not be able to fall asleep, will lie down in that is tossing about. After getting up, in the afternoon transfers inside Guilin. Wow, Guilin US in scenery, what is special is in the city is also the mountain, the building of residence is pasting the mountain. The senior citizen rest and recreation also in the cave, cool takes shelter from the rain, but also some people live in the cave. The temple is also linking the cave, good unusual. Guilin this also has an island village, on the ship others is catching the fish. On the island, in here, had the game cock unexpectedly, under the tent, encircled many people, under the field the master examined that the game cock the condition, on the field two chickens intense were fighting, was very lively!

In July 15, rains, past 10:00 beds go to the station, bought the ticket to go to Nanning. From 11:40 past 4:00 pm only then, have carried the package to toss about several stations to determine finally moves in nearby the train station.

Without hostel, asked several, we have been admitted to the Chaoyang hotel finally, inside this is inexpensive, 501, have the air conditioning. Afterward we only then discovered that inside this has many knapsack foreigners to move. Our that in three.

Three building's turning points have many young female sits chats, also young, but is much longer. Tom guessed that definitely is that kind. Sure enough, evening has the telephone to come, I meet, does not have the sound. Second time, the telephone sound, Tom meets, female asks must massage, the Tom practical joke asked the how much money, then reach an agreement. Also really some people will have knocked on a door, I will earn the gate. Not a high not thin medium stature's female, is also long may, definitely had not thought that can be female opening the door, asked I some people hit a moment ago telephone. I told her definitely am make a mistake the room. Ha-ha!

Inquired with the hotel Baise should also have puts on the traditional clothes, therefore we decided that goes to me first in on-line Zha Dao Pama, goes to Baise again. The second day took a seat early in the morning boards spends four hours only then to arrive at Pama.

Material demonstration: The Guangxi Bama Yao Autonomous County was still maintains until now the complete primitive ecology the virgin land, here had the mysterious evil spirit hole, was township of the world fifth longevity. But the Pama county anything did not look that we look for the shop to stay first, then inquired.

Arrived at Jiazhuan Town first, here just is the day which goes to the market, was only the time already not early, the human was not many. In here, first time sees with a meter about long ten centimeter that thick bamboo pump smoke, but also has Zhuang national minority's women to hold in the mouth the tobacco pipe to do business. Approaches has a Zhuang national minority village, just sheared the rice, many are being busy in the place is 70-80 year-old person, thin, but spiritual especially good. Here is the mountainous area, old person is not idling, in addition the air good water is good, cheerful, nature on longevity.

Hears the distant place the Palestinian plate to store the village, there has is hundred year-old person, as soon as for sees elderly person's elegant demeanor, we have made contact with a motorcycle, toward mountain in deep place. Here is very poor, the house very broken, as soon as arrives at the village spigot, saw township of - Pakistan plate the world fifth longevity stores index plate. The village is very small, as soon as the human inquired with the village, the centenarian, everybody knew, pointed at a new lid's house saying that was, in home. Is actually very strange, felt that probably everybody knew comes this to look at the centenarian. Afterward only then knew, but the local travel agency must arrange a program. Greets us is old person's grandson, 30 several, already were several child's fathers, but seemed also the 20-30 years old. And so on centenarians come out, the sound is loud and clear, thin healthy, spiritual especially good, particularly shakes hand with us the strength of hand may be big, was really unbelievable this already is 109 year-old advanced age. On the wall has in the village which one several years ago illuminate centenarian's group photo, other not, although in the present village also has many hundred year-old people, but at present this is in the village age biggest one. Has many people to come from far away visits old person, the light is several which specially comes from Japan. Really had not thought that we bumped into had found the treasure, ha-ha!

Visits old person to return to the Pama county already is the evening. Can the second day needs to go to Dongshan Town's Bugan village, indefinite come back, therefore we carry on the back the package to go to Bugan directly the village. Here vehicle is the small bread actually, 10 dollar, must put together six people, because is far away moreover the road to be also difficult to walk, is in the mountain, therefore comes this vehicle every day only then 12, Che Yao and so on filled has only then been possible to walk, otherwise did not go. Has the vehicle also to have the human today fortunately, sits boards 11:30 only then, we with the driver determined 2:00 pm time also will have the vehicle to go back. The driver good intention helped us to look for the place which very much here lived, if missed we to be possible to live for one evening in here. Lays down the thing, we in the future side the hillside morals Bugan village will walk, also about a kilometer.

The village is not big, is very attractive, many woven bamboo utensils house, outside attractive, but inside does not have a thing in the world, is very black, is very spatial, any thing puts on the same place. Here house one is red going against, the fallen more than 20 places, inlay in the level area in the mountains ao, red green interaction, interesting village. In the village also some very big rotunda, holiday time everybody gathers here to put on the most beautiful cloth vertical stroke precious clothes happy song joke, is assemble. What what a pity was coming in us couple days ago, here just joyfully celebrated has been wishing the festival, possessed Yao national minority's girls to joyfully celebrate in this, puts on the most grand magnificent upper and lower garments, television station's photography swarms, but this. But we did not know unexpectedly, has missed the best photography opportunity. Now puts on the Yao national minority clothing not to have. For the experience to the beautiful Yao national minority clothing, we found a pair of attractive elder sister and the younger male cousin had demonstrated for us their clothes, what was really very attractive. Although pairs person's clothes are the Tibet black, but on the girl front piece and the sleeve cuff has embroidered the color line, on the waist ties up Guangzhou which all colors bead puts on to add the red line, some round silver stick, long approximately 20 centimeters, one to two centimeter thickness, the both sides have the villain design. On the neck hangs the long colorful bead necklace and the big silver ring bring the bell to hang in the front, the beautiful head ornaments, the dark blue cloth wrapper, is enclosing each kind of color the floret to embellish the silver band, behind inserted many silver hairpins, flings Bai from left side De the belt safflower stripe belt Guangzhou's turban, the both sides are the bright red lines. Male was only on has entangled the heavy blue cloth, two vertical bank many red lines. So the US clothing adds on the good-looking beautiful woman, really raises the eye.

1:30 we are getting out when vehicles and so on place, 2-3 spots did not have the vehicle. Here person said that only could wait for tomorrow past 6:00 am vehicles. The nearby has a school, but has not attended class nobody. Only then inside has three girls to use the hand to break off the corn kernel, ground has overspread the corn which breaks off down, they entire sit in above, is very happy.

Dongshan Town is very small, anything has not been possible to look that 45 spots, the weather has been also dark, we bump into on the hillside break off the corn family of four, mother and three children, two girls, a boy, most greatly also 22 years old. Daddy had already passed away, now they must carry the basket, climbed down the hillside yumide to break off in one big piece has filled the basket, carried on the back again crawls uphill pours in the roadside. We downward are crawling with them, a twinkling, they disappear, I also in gradually look at the road with Tom, is stepping on under foot's stone, getting down cautiously. Waits for time which they come up, we with upward are crawling again, to us, this is the sheer precipice simply, but they less than ten year-old child carried the basket to come up all of a sudden. Really those who look at them is filled with emotion, what is really in the city children cannot with the countryside ratio, the countryside child not be able with the mountain in ratio!

Although lives this family is opens the restaurant, in the afternoon and so on vehicle's times, looks that others are eating the rice-flour noodle in this bowl, but we are really cannot eat, fortunately, we also have some grain, also casually has sent, I also bought two packages of pickled mustard tubers in the shop to gnaw. Evening what sleeps is a three room, but goes to bathroom wants on two, the restroom is linking the hill. In the room only then two very narrow small beds, have the mosquito net, but in room a flavor. Is good night hot, does not have the electric fan to operate the window no matter uses, but also has the mosquito. On the bed only then a mat, presses hurts, has no way to sleep, this good night is unendurable.

In July 18, six spots take a seat board, driver unexpectedly yesterday's that position. Returns to Pama, spent two-and-a-half hours to go by car arrives at Baise. Thought originally in Baise can see puts on local to many natives clothes, but did not think that Baise is a big city actually, our anything does not look. Thought suddenly has been tired, therefore we decided that went by car immediately Nanning, did not want to treat. Which root was my after mistakenly, convinced Tom to make the train unexpectedly to return to Nanning. Certainly a reason is the cheap half money, returns to Nanning's ticket well expensive, nearly 100 dollars. Bought the ticket to regret, must in the train station and so on more than three hours, really be bored to death, the waiting room hot must die, in the top of the head electric fan could not get up the function. Starts not to have any person, the successor are getting more and more, also hot is also noisy. And so on boarded, really pushes, three person's seats, really regret past mistakes! What is only good has bought 45 catty local blue awn nearby the station, only then one dollar one catty, sweet serious, was really too delicious. No wonder waits for vehicle's people are packed in a box is carrying.

the 17:50 vehicle, and so on returned to the Nanning 21 spots, was exposed to the sun the hotel only to remain two rooms, in staircase mouth, in two, before not, lived good, but did not have the means to come to be too late, has not selected, also sits train's result.

Our next station is the Inner Mongolian Huhhot. The ticket is 16 buys, because is the tourist season, therefore the ticket could not buy say nothing of the sleeping berth, and has not gone directly to Huhhot, must transfer to another vehicle in Shijiazhuang. Therefore we have to bought two 20 to sit the ticket from Nanning 9:10 to the Shijiazhuang second day 9:45, wanted an entire 24 hour also mostly hour, then changed vehicle again Huhhot. Has been connected including the above fortunately from Shijiazhuang to Huhhot's ticket 15:52 same day, although must in the station and so on 56 hours, we be very happy, what moreover this time buys finally is the sleeping berth.

In July 19, relaxed, only strolls Nanning, a big city, probably also does not have anything to be amusing. Asks the way but actually time bumps into one stupid male and a nerve maneating female, two people both are putting on the uniform, helps others, male did not know, the female manner talks back badly the malicious talk! Mental illness tigress mistakenly nerve!

No matter what, has bought east many in here Carefour east, made fully the preparation for the second day of journey.

In July 20, 9:00 am trains, lead us to leave for our journey last station----Inner Mongolia!!!!!

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Monday, July 9, 2007

被人遗忘淡去的千年瑶寨,繁华之外的广东



7月9号,折腾了两天,好在赶上了六点的末班车去肇庆,到那边都半夜10:30了。找旅馆还算顺利,条件也不错,干净又舒服还有空调才50rmb。边上一条街的饭馆还是灯火通明,煞是热闹。我们点了三个菜有我们爱吃的酸菜鱼和豆腐,比起澳门突然间觉得太便宜了,开怀大吃,饱饱的,好满足。




研究一下肇庆旅游,好像七星岩值得一去。第二天一大早我们就坐公交去了,半个多小时,到了那边竟然发现其实是个公园,石头有点像桂林的那种,湖光山色围绕,美倒是挺美的,适合休闲度假的,但跟我们要的东西不太一样。就这样,我们俩都没有下车,直接又回去到车站。时间还早,才七点半,随即我们买了八点的车去封开的岭南第一村“杨池古村”顺道回来的时候再去德庆的“金林水乡”,虽然有点远,因为光是从肇庆到封开就要四个小时车程,但我们估摸着抓紧点应该能赶得回来。




杨池古村,坐落在封开县罗董镇的大山坳里,我们先是在中途的汪村车站下车,再等车到罗董镇,下车就能看到岔路口的岭南第一村的大幅宣传招牌在那矗立着。我们还以为到了,再一打听,从这到村里还有八公里,这个就没有车可去了,唯一的方式就是打摩的,花了九块钱。门票20。




杨池古村峰峦环抱,村子因一杨柳池塘而得名。全村均为叶姓氏族,其先祖因避战乱,而隐居于此,已有380多年历史。有着60多座保存完好的古屋,清一色砖石木结构,有壁画、灰塑、木雕。这里出过好多的官员,所以有些屋檐呈官帽形,是远近闻名的文化村。这里还留有书院,祠堂跟钱庄。池塘边的墙上悬挂着一些空的篮子,据说这里的村民卖菜的时候只要把菜放到篮子里,无需人看管,到时候只要过来取钱就行了。村子里载满了果树,村内有乳泉、盈泉、灵珠泉、两性泉,据说都有传奇色彩,水伸手够着,夏天洗洗,很舒服。




金林水乡,在国道路口下了车,打摩的过去20元,门票30。金林水乡据说是2005年广东最美的村子,这停满了旅游车。村口摆了好多的卖土特产的摊,大片的贡柑林,刚刚结了小果。一路走进去的确很漂亮,各色果树,村里的小孩也守着摊,两块钱一束的水果,不知道是什么,长得像新鲜的桂圆,但剥开皮,酸酸甜甜,里边有几粒子,很好吃,这个在杨池古镇也有见,但那边还比较纯朴,不像这边卖东西的好多,不过都是土特产(有泡的何首乌),所以也还不错。沿路有几架水车,哗哗的转着。这个有着1700多年历史的高台上的水乡人家有着两河、双圳、五大井”及水塘,村子建筑感觉比较松散,村里有很多老人,有的房子很破,还有在盖房的,好像看的也不是很多,作为最美的村子我们多少还是觉得有点遗憾。比较起来,虽然杨池古村没有这么多水也没有这边大,但看建筑还是喜欢杨池古村一些




一个小时后出来,天也快黑了,也没有看到摩的。我们就在马路上站着等过往的车辆,还好有一辆的士刚好回德庆那边,所以我们只花了20块就来到了德庆车站。赶上了七点的班车回肇庆,还在车站附近的市场买了好多的荔枝。这边的香蕉荔枝都太便宜了,还新鲜,都是自家种的。




七月十一号,又是早起去车站买票,因为昨天回来时车站早关门了,所以今天早上直接背着包来车站,谁知道8:30到清远的票已经没有了,我们只能等9:50的那趟了,然后我们又要赶12:00的车从清远到连南。不管怎样,还都被我们赶上了,到连南的时候都四点多了。




连南是广东的瑶族自治县,据说在连绵百里的高山峻岭上,到处都是瑶家村寨,所以连南素有“百里瑶山”之美称。来这里我们是为了看瑶寨和瑶族,但我们也不确定能看到什么,瑶族是不是还穿着他们的传统服饰。当我们在连南的车上看到一位岁数比较大的妇女还穿着瑶族服饰,头上扎着青布的时候,好激动啊,这就说明肯定还有人穿的。




跟车站的人打听,知道这边比较有名的有三排瑶寨和千年瑶寨,有车到岗寨经过三排瑶寨但千年瑶寨就没有车直达了,有几十公里远。但今天太晚了,而且那边是没有住宿的,那只能明天才能去了。附近的旅馆挺多的,很快我们就把住的地方给安顿好了。



街上也没什么特别的,所有的人穿的都跟我们一样,只是偶尔能看到一个两个穿瑶族服饰的。当时也没看到什么像样的餐馆,但晚上这边的大排档不错,很红火,吃了好多,但Tom拉肚子了




第二天一早,在车站附近看到几个年轻的妇女穿着美丽的衣服,我们就问她们是那个村子的,离这远不远,村子里是不是都还穿瑶族的服饰,她们很热情但听不太懂她们的话,但我们可以知道她们那的确还穿。



我们叫了个蓬蓬车,10里,说好12块钱到三排瑶寨。这一路上让我们惊喜不已,路过的马路边的几个村子都还穿着他们的瑶服,尤其看到一个中年的男子头上盘了一叠的红布,红红的,高高的,好亮眼,回来的时候我们一定要好好在这逛逛。




三排瑶寨,很失望。其实也没有进里边,但当我们跟售票员询问里边什么样的时候,那人什么都不说,表现有点弱智的样子。这边全部都是山,在门口我们也看不到什么,感觉也没有人。所以我们打算还是去千年瑶寨一看。搭上车到岗寨,再找了个面包,30元去千年瑶寨。




千年瑶寨被誉为“中国瑶族第一寨”,坐落在海拔600多米的高山上,四周群峰迭嶂,是目前全国规模最大、最古老、最具特色的瑶寨。一排排整齐的古典建筑民居顺着山势错落有致地排列在半山坡上,一律青砖砌墙,黑瓦盖顶,极为壮观。在这里有旅游孕育而生的观景台一览瑶寨风光。只可惜这座拥有一千四百多年历史的古寨,有鼎盛时期的700多幢民居、1000多户、7000多人到现在的不到200余人和368幢明清时期的古宅。在这里我们看到的大多是七八十岁的老人,独自居住着。由于交通的不方便,在山里收割农作物运输等等都是问题,所以年轻的基本上都已搬下山。看着这一幢幢寨门、寨墙、踏着悠悠的石板道,在淅淅沥沥的小雨之下,感受着千年瑶寨的历史沧桑。




我们进来的时候,刚好有歌舞表演结束,一群游客正意犹未尽的拍着照。虽然错过了表演,但这悠悠古寨足以让我们沉醉叹息。寻觅着古道,迎面走来一个六七十岁的大爷,正扛着锄头下地,也就穿着他们平时的衣服,头上围着一块白巾。当我们表示想拍照的时候,很出人意料,他让我们等一下,他要回去换衣服。就这样我们跟着他来到他家门口,等老大爷再次出现在我们眼前的时候,上身下身都穿戴整齐,尤其是头上产生了层层的红布,很隆重。很有派的站在那里让我们拍。之后我们才了解,剩下的这些老人都只靠下地干活种得一些粮食过活,很清苦,但自从这边辟为旅游景区后,好多人要求拍照,所以也就有了提供拍照的一些微薄收入。之后我们在玉米地里又拍到了光着膀子,穿着一条只到膝盖上破裤子,腰间栓一条红巾子,头上同样盘着红头巾的另外一个老人,这位都快80了,黑瘦黑瘦的只有一层皮,没有一点肉。他把我们带到他的屋里,给我们看其他人给他拍得两张相片,老人还拿出了他各式的长长的竹节做成的烟斗,长长细细。老人点起了烟,背上他的瑶族包。屋子里一件像样的东西都没有,除了有几口锅,真是的好破好破,什么都没有,屋里是黑乎乎的。之后我们还碰到一位老太太,同样那么大的岁数,坐在门槛上,瘦瘦的,眼睛好大,穿的一样很破,不停的咳着。看到我们的时候,虽然不舒服但还是静静的坐在那让我们拍照,还给我们端了碗酒邀请我们喝,这好像还是当地待客的习俗。看着他们一个人,真是慨叹,千年的瑶寨千年的魂!




现居住在山寨的瑶民,主要有邓、唐、盘、房四个氏族。他们在明代时就建立了民主选举的“瑶老制”,管理瑶寨。不期然,在这里我们竟然碰到了最后一位瑶王的孙女。瑶王的房子一样的简单空荡。孙女的妈妈正坐在门口一针一线的绣着瑶包,据说做那么一个包要两三个月才能完成。孙女和她的堂姐在一块玩,在边上我们还碰到兄弟俩,他们都是七八岁,十一二岁的样子,都简单的穿着瑶族的服饰,即使是小女孩也是跟男孩一样的青布衣服,没有花花绿绿,只是女孩腰间栓的是白色的巾子,男孩是红色的巾子。小男孩小女孩都很热情,邀请我们吃他们烤的玉米。每天他们都要走两个小时下山去上学,每天两个小时走回家。小女孩说习惯了也就不累了。我们拍了一些他们的相片,答应给他们寄过去。希望快乐!



美丽的瑶寨,不远处的青山绵绵,绵绵细雨下,就跟在画里一样,水墨无尽




从千年瑶寨出来的时候,刚好碰到一辆车要去连南,我们问了价钱,竟然跟我们要60块钱,不降价,我们才不要呢。虽然我们有之前那位司机的电话,但我们还是决定溜达下去,到岗寨再做车。就这么从山上一直往下走,好远好远,一路上都是青山,跟桂林的地貌很相似。路上也偶有小村子,走了快一个小时差不多到岗寨了,从山上下来了一辆面包车,一打听,才6块钱一人到连南,我们喜滋滋的上了车,好便宜。看来我们俩之前不知行情,亏了。等到之前我们经过的那两个村子的时候,我们俩就下车了,因为到连南还有一段距离,所以司机才要了10块钱。



这边的村子,虽然能看到很多人还是穿瑶族衣服,但这里已经有了现代村子的气息。大家聊着天打着牌。我们看到她们的包包好漂亮,要100块钱一个,想买,但因为他们不肯150块钱给我们两个,所以没买,后来好后悔哦!以后也许再也没机会了




农田里正长着高高的稻子,看瑶族妇女穿着瑶服在地里打农药,别有风情



一路溜达着回连南,路上碰到卖西瓜的,两块钱一个,不大不小,很甜。马路边上有一条特别宽的大坝河,路边歇了好多的摩托车,水里全是游泳玩水的人,大人小孩,都是一家子下了班带小孩来的。天的确是太热,Tom也按奈不住,尽兴下水了。我在边上呆着,看着东西。看着眼前,想想瑶寨感觉就是恍如隔世!



今天收获颇丰,晚上我们还找到了一家好的餐馆,香喷喷的鱼和蔬菜米饭,好开胃



明天又要开始下一站了----广西省!





###谢谢大家支持摄影记者Tom Carter的摄影集China:Portrait of a People,全书640页涵盖了中国所有的33个省市特区。在线购买Blue Fontaine, Blacksmith BooksHaven Books,来看看我们自制的中国明信片和YouTube上的《中国人物》《中国建筑》系列的精彩视频吧!



China Photography
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Is forgotten the millennium precious stronghold which by the human goes pale, beside is lively the Guangdong

In July 9, tossed about for two days, was good is catching up with six point last buses to go to Zhaoqing, to that side midnight 10:30. Looks for the hotel also to calculate smoothly, the condition is also good, is also cleanly comfortable also has the air conditioning only then 50rmb. On a street's restaurant is brilliantly illuminated, is really lively. We have selected the pickled cabbage fish which and the bean curd three vegetables have us to like eating, compares Macao to think suddenly has been too cheap, gives birth for the first time eats greatly, full, good satisfied.

Studies the Zhaoqing traveling, as soon as probably Seven Star Crag is worth going. The second day we took a seat the public transportation to go very early, more than a half hours, to that side had discovered unexpectedly were actually a park, the stone a little look like Guilin's that kind, the lake and mountain scenery complementing each other revolve, US was but actually very beautiful, suited the leisure to take vacation, but wanted with us the thing was not too same. Then, both of us have not gotten out, goes back the station directly. The time which the time also early, only then 7:30, immediately we bought eight point vehicles to have sealed the Lingnan first village which “Yang Chigu the village” come back on the way again goes to De Qing “the golden forest region of rivers and lakes”, although a little far, because the light was takes four hour driving distances from Zhaoqing to sealing, but we were supposing grasped the spot to be able to catch up with comes back.

Yang Chigu the village, is situated in the Fengkai County Luo Dong Zhen big level area in the mountains, we are the first station get out in midway Wang Cun, then waits for Che Daoluo the Dong town, gets out to be able to see road fork's Lingnan first village's large propaganda advertisement is standing erect in that. We also thought that as soon as inquired again, from this to the village in eight kilometers, this did not have Che Ke to go, the only way was attacks Morocco, has spent nine dollars. Admission ticket 20.

Yang Chigu the village peaks and ridges surround, the village acquires fame because of a willow pond. The entire villiage is the leaf surname clan, its ancestor because of evades the chaos caused by war, but lives in seclusion in this, had more than 380 years history. Has more than 60 preserved complete ancient rooms, the uniform bricks and stones wood construction, has the mural, the ash to model, the woodcarving. Here has had many officials, therefore some eaves assume the official headgear shape, is Wenhua Village which is renowned far and near. Here also leaves leeway the academy, the ancestral temple with the money shop. Nearby on the pond wall is being hanging some spatial baskets, it is said here villagers sell the vegetable time, so long as puts the vegetable to the basket, does not need the human to safeguard, so long as when the time comes came takeing the money to be good. In the village was fully laden with the fruit tree, in the village had the young spring, the full spring, the spirit bead spring, the amphoteric spring, it is said had the legendary color, the water puts out a hand to suffice, in the summer washed, was very comfortable.

The golden forest region of rivers and lakes, got out in the federal highway street intersection, to hit Morocco's past 20 Yuan, the admission ticket 30. The golden forest region of rivers and lakes it is said is in 2005 the Guangdong most beautiful village, this has crowded the tourist car. The village has suspended many sells the local product the booth, the big piece's tribute citrus reticulata forest, had just borne the fruitlet. A group walks is indeed very attractive, the assorted fruit tree, in the village child is also defending the booth, two dollar bunch of fruits, do not know are anything, is long looks like the fresh dried longan, but bares the skin, sour and sweet, inside has several granules, is very delicious, this also has in the Yang pond old town sees, but that side is also quite simple, here does not look like sells the thing many, but is the local product (has soaking polygonum multiflorum), therefore is also good. Several waterwheels, whish whish are transferring along the road. This has in more than 1700 year historical catwalk region of rivers and lakes others to have two rivers, the double dike, five big wells” and the pond, the village construction feeling is quite loose, in the village has many old people, some houses very broken, but also has is building a house, probably looks is not many, takes the most beautiful village we how many to think that a little regretted. Compares, although here Yang Chigu the village such juicy also has not had big, but looked that the construction likes Yang Chigu village some!

One hour later comes out, the day quick has been also black, also has not seen Morocco. We are standing on the street and so on passing vehicles, some taxi just returns to that side fortunately De Qing, therefore we only spent 20 to arrive at the De Qing station. Caught up with seven point bus services to return to Zhaoqing, but also has bought many litchi chinenses in the station nearby market. Here banana litchi chinensis too has been cheap, but is also fresh, is kind.

In July 11, is also gets up early the station to buy the ticket, because yesterday came back time the station has closed early, therefore this morning carried the package to come the station directly, who knew that 8:30 arrived at Qingyuan's ticket already not to have, we only could wait for 9:50 that then we must catch up with 12:00 Che Cong the Qingyuan to Liennan. No matter what, but also has been caught up with by us, to Liennan's time past 4:00.

Liennan is Guangdong's Yao national minority Autonomous County, it is said on the continuous hundred mile mountain high mountains, everywhere is the precious family stockaded village, therefore Liennan is known as “hundred mile Mt. Yao” the laudatory name. Comes here us is to look at the precious stronghold and the Yao national minority, but we indefinite can see anything, the Yao national minority is also putting on their traditional clothing. When we on Liennan's vehicle saw that is also putting on the Yao national minority clothing to an age quite big woman, on is gripping black cloth time, good excited, this explained that definitely also some people put on.

Inquires with the station person, knew that here quite famous has three row of precious strongholds and the millennium precious stronghold, had Che Daogang the stronghold to pass through three row of precious stronghold but millennium precious stronghold not to have the vehicle to go directly to, had several dozens kilometer far. But too has been today late, moreover that side does not have the lodging, that only could tomorrow be able. The nearby hotel are very many, is very quick the place which we hold on to give is calmly good.

On the street also does not have anything specially, all people put on are the same with us, is only occasionally can see that puts on the Yao national minority clothing to one two. At that time has not seen any nice restaurant, but here evening's big gear is good, was very prosperous, has eaten many, but Tom had diarrhea.

The second day early in the morning, nearby the station saw is putting on the beautiful clothes to several young women, we asked that they are that village, to this is far, in the village also puts on Yao national minority's clothing, they very warm, but listens not too to understand their words, but we may know that their that indeed also puts on.

We have been called a loose roadster, 10 miles, reach an agreement 12 dollars to three row of precious strongholds. This lets us be pleasantly surprised all the way, nearby street's several villages which passed by is also putting on their precious clothing, especially saw that to a middle-aged male on plate pack of scarlet cloth, red, high, the good bright eye, came back time we must certainly stroll well in this.

Three row of precious strongholds, are very disappointed. Inside actually has not entered, but when we with the ticket seller inquired inside what time, that person of anything did not say, performance a little retarded appearance. Here is a mountain completely, we also does not look at anything in the entrance, feeling also nobody. As soon as therefore we plan or go to the millennium precious stronghold to look. Makes contact with Che Daogang the stronghold, has looked for a bread again, 30 Yuan go to the millennium precious stronghold.

The millennium precious stronghold is honored as “the Chinese Yao national minority first stronghold”, is situated on the elevation more than 600 meters mountains, all around the group peak repeat screen-like mountain peaks, is the present national scale is biggest, is most ancient, the most characterful precious stronghold. A row of neat classical architecture common people residence is suitable the appearance of the mountain to arrange scattered and organized on half hillside, the same blue brick builds a wall, the black tile coping, is extremely magnificent. Has traveling breeding as soon as in here fresh to look at the scenery Taiwan to look at the precious stronghold scenery. Was only a pity that this has more than 1400 year historical ancient strongholds, has the prosperous time more than 700 common people residences, more than 1000 household, more than 7000 people to the present less than 200 person and 368 Ming and Qing Dynasties time ancient dwelling. Saw in here us mostly is 70-80 year-old person, alone is living. Because the transportation is not convenient, harvests the crops transportation in the mountain and so on is the question, therefore young basically moved descends the mountain. Looks that this flickering stronghold gate, the stronghold wall, are treading the long stone plank road, under the light rain lightly, is feeling the millennium precious stronghold historical vicissitudes.

We come, just had the dance to perform ends, group of tourists were having not given full expression pat are illuminating. Although has missed the performance, but this long ancient stronghold lets us immerse the sigh sufficiently. Searches the ancient road, the front surface is walking 60-70 year-old Sir, is carrying on the shoulder under the hoe, also puts on their usual clothes, on is wearing a white turban. When we indicated wants to photograph, is very beyond expectation, he lets us wait, he wants to go back trades clothes. Like this we are arriving at his main house gate mouth with him, and so on uncles appear once more at our at present time, the upper body lower part of the body dresses neatly, particularly on has produced the scarlet cloth layer upon layer, is very grand. Has the faction station to let us very much in there pat. Afterward we only then understood, is left over these old people only work depending on under plant some grain to earn a living, is very impoverished, but wards off since here after the tourist scenic zone, many people request the photograph, therefore also had has provided the photograph some meagre incomes. Afterward we in yumide in patted the light upper arm, put on one only to arrive at on the knee the broken pants, a waist hitch red turban, on same plate red kerchief's other old person, this quick 80, black thin black thin had a skin, did not have a meat. He leads us to his room, to us looked that other people also made two photographs to him, old person have put out the tobacco pipe which his various types' long bamboo node made, long careful. Old person selected had the smoke, carried on the back his Yao national minority package. In the room a nice thing does not have, except has several pots, is really good broken good broken, anything does not have, in the room is dark. Afterward we also bump into an old woman, the similarly that big age, sits on the threshold, thin, the eye is very big, puts on equally very broken, does not stop is coughing. Sees our time, although uncomfortable, but static sitting lets us in that photograph, gave back to us to carry the bowl liquor to invite us to drink, this probably locality entertained a guest custom. Looks that a their person, really sighs with regret, millennium precious stronghold millennium soul!

Presently lives in the village in a mountainous area precious people, mainly has Deng, Tang, the plate, the room four clans. They when the Ming Dynasty has established the democratic election “the precious old system”, manages the precious stronghold. Unexpectedly, has bumped into the last precious king's granddaughter unexpectedly in here us. Precious king's house same simple empty. Granddaughter's mother is sitting in the entrance smallest bits of property is embroidering the precious package, it is said makes such package to take 2-3 months to be able to complete. The granddaughter and her older female cousin is playing together, also bumps into the two brothers in side on us, they are 78 years old, 22 year-old appearance, simple is putting on Yao national minority's clothing, even if is the little girl is also with the boy same black cloth clothes, not colorful, only what is the girl waist hitch is the white turban, the boy is the red turban. The young boy little girls are very warm, invite the corn which we eat them to roast. Every day they must walk two hours to descend the mountain go to school, daily two hour walk home. The little girl said that is used to it has not been also tired. We have made some their photograph, complies to send to them. Hopes joyfully!

The beautiful precious stronghold, not far away green hill is continuous, under the continuous drizzle, follows in the picture to be the same, water ink inexhaustible!

Comes out from the millennium precious stronghold, just bumps into Che Yao to go to Liennan, we asked the price, takes 60 dollars unexpectedly with us, does not reduce prices, we only then do not want. Although before we have, that driver's telephone, but we decide to take a stroll, makes the vehicle again to the hillock stronghold. Such downward has walked from the mountain, good far good far, is the green hill all the way, is very similar with Guilin's landform. On the road also occasionally has small village, walked quick one hour almost to arrive at the hillock stronghold, from mountain down a van, as soon as inquired, only then a 6 dollar person arrived at Liennan, our feeling pleased boarding, good cheap. Before looking like both of us, does not know the quotation, owed. When before we pass through that two village time, both of us got out, because also has section of distances to Liennan, therefore the driver has only then wanted 10 dollars.

Here village, although can see many people put on the Yao national minority clothes, but here already had the modern village breath. Everybody chats is playing the card. We saw their pocket good attractive, takes 100 dollar one, wants to buy, but because of them is not willing 150 dollars for us two, therefore has not bought, afterward regretted well! Again also will not have later perhaps the opportunity!

In the farmland the high rice, was looking steadily the Yao national minority women put on the precious clothing to hit the agricultural chemicals in the place, the character and style.

A group takes a stroll is returning to Liennan, on the road bumps into sells the watermelon, two dollar, not too big nor too small, is very sweet. Nearby the street on had a specially wide Ba River, the roadside has rested many motorcycles, in the water is the swimming playing with water person, adult the child, was the whole family got off work the belt child to come. The day indeed is too hot, Tom also pressed nai does not live, enjoys oneself to the full launches. I on am staying in the side, looks at the thing. Looks at present, thinks that the precious stronghold felt is just likes separates the world!

Today harvests quite abundant, evening we also had found a good restaurant, the fragrant fish and the vegetables rice, good whets the appetite!

Under tomorrow as soon as must start to stand----Guangxi Province!

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